That Camisole

camisole 1 camisole 2 camisole 3 options

in between all that touring, i did manage to complete that hand-sewn camisole.

since the embroidered fabric i chose was lightweight, i underlined it with a layer of cotton muslin so it wouldn’t be see-through and to give it better structure as i wanted to wear it on its own.  i made the bias tape with the same cotton muslin for the straps and neckline and finished the bottom edge with it also instead of a double fold hem as in the original instructions, to avoid the bulk.

the whole thing turned out to be quite nice… until i tried it on.  one glance in the mirror confirmed how it felt– the camisole was way to wide.

maybe the pattern was designed with a non-stretchy fabric in mind and therefore, required more ease?  or maybe the pattern was yet another of those loose-fitting ‘natural’ style designs that dominate the japanese sewing books?   thinking perhaps that it was meant to be layered, i tried it on over a tank top, but that didn’t help one bit.  whatever the case, the body was just too wide, resulting in excess fabric that droops at the underarm.  since i prefer clothes that hug the body more, i couldn’t see myself wearing this much, if at all.

that said, i don’t want this all to go to waste.  in thinking over what i could do to improve it without taking it all apart, i came up with three solutions to cinch the fabric at the back.
1) a band and button ‘belt’ often seen on vests
2) gathering fabric and sewing elastic on the inside
3) adding ties
the first solution seems too structured for a soft, feminine camisole, so i think the second and third options would work better.  still considering alternatives though… suggestions are welcome!

this issue of fit and shape is the reason why i haven’t been enticed to make more clothing when i look through japanese sewing pattern books.  too often, the emphasis is on quick & simple which means baggy with minimal shaping to hide any and all presumed body flaws.  are there any good places where i can find fitted styles for smaller figures…?

ツーリングの合間にあの手縫いのキャミソールも仕上げました。

選んだ刺繍生地が薄手だったので、シーチングを重ねて透け感をなくし、形もしっかりさせて一枚でも着られるように作りました。バイアステープも同じシーチングで作り、裾は三つ折りにするとかさばるので、それもバイアスで始末。出来上がりはいい感じでしたが、着てみたら...

太すぎました。

ストレッチが無い生地を前提にデザインされたキャミだからでしょうか?下からかぶるために必要な「ゆとり」とか。それとも日本の手作り服の本でよく見る(というか殆どがそうなのだけれど)ナチュラル系のだぼっとしたデザインだから?だとしたら、重ね着用?試しにタンクを下に着てみたのですが、それでもボディが広すぎて脇に布が余ってしまいます。普通はもっと体に添う形が好みなので、残念ながらこのままでは余り着る気になれません。

でも、せっかく手縫いで作ったキャミ。どうにかできないかと考えた末、三つの方法が浮かびました。ベストでよく使われるバンド+ボタン。ギャザーを作ってゴムを裏に縫い付ける。紐を付けて結わえて絞る。このうち最初のはやさしい印象のキャミには合わなそうなので、あとの二つのどちらかとは思いますが、只今検討中です。

これだから日本のパターンブックを見てもお洋服を縫う気になれないんだよね...「かんたん」とか「すぐできる」とかが重視されすぎていて。結果体型を見事にカバーしてくれるすとんとしたゆとりたっぷりの洋服が多くなってしまっている。もっと体のフォルムに添うパターン出しているをところは無いのでしょうか...?

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This entry was published on September 17, 2016 at 10:54 pm. It’s filed under Handcraft, Sewing and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

One thought on “That Camisole

  1. I don’t sew anymore but when I did I found that all patterns ran larger than the size indicated. I always had to adjust the pattern. I am much larger than you which makes me think that Patterns just run large.

    You could wear this camisole as a pajama top. ??

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